My time in Pai was at times exciting, but mostly leisurely and restful. I spent one week there and will do my best to sum it up properly without too much unnecessary detail.
The steep and winding road from Chiang Mai to Pai is said to contain 762 curves. Yes, someone counted. I was picked up from my guesthouse by a songthaew, a covered pickup with passenger seating in the form of two long, parallel benches in the back. Songthaew are the standard mode of transportation for many locals in lieu of buses or taxis. They are cheaper, slower, and less comfortable than most other four-wheeled options. The driver squeezed nine of us inside - me and four couples. With all of our luggage.
I had paid 150 baht for an air-conditioned van to Pai. Imagining riding up 762 rolling curves sandwiched between two smelly hippies in the back of a pickup truck was not my idea of a good time. Fortunately the agony only lasted a short while, as we pulled into a bus station and chaotically transferred to our AC van. Relief.
I'd heard about Pai from friends before coming to Thailand. I had a picture of it in my mind: that hippie oasis in the north where life is easy and the birds sing while you nap in hammocks and eat copious amounts of Thai food. Actually, this illusion is more accurate than one might imagine. But there's more to Pai than that. The people are relaxed and welcoming, it's nearly cheaper than dirt, and once you arrive it's very difficult to leave. Compared to the rest of Thailand it's same same, but different.
I stayed at Yawning Fields, referred by my friends Nathan and Sandy. For 200 baht/night (less than $7) I had a private nature bungalow. Emphasis on the nature part. At any given time I was likely to find geckos, ants, mosquitos, wasps, and other such creepy crawlies in my room. I learned very quickly to use the provided mosquito net. One night I wore a citronella bracelet on my left arm while sleeping. I woke up to a dozen or more bites on my right arm; my left untouched. Forgive the lame pun, but mosquitos suck.
Natural nasties aside, Yawning Fields was pure bliss. Co-owner Ming, a feisty Thai lady, cooks up some mean local and international dishes. Her cooking, combined with their policy of paying nothing till you leave, made it extremely tempting (and dangerous) to stay in Pai for a very long time. I could literally do nothing but eat Ming's food all day without leaving the property or handing over any baht. Too convenient.
As relaxing as Pai is, I can only sit still for so long without developing cabin fever, wanderlust, or some related disorder. Fortunately, motorbikes are readily available in town for 140 baht per day. I rented a bike for nearly the entire duration of my stay in Pai, exploring every nook and cranny I could get to on two wheels.
Still hungry? Have Another Slice of Pai
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